2017 Domaine Bruno Clair Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru

Domaine Bruno Clair’s Bonnes-Mares comes from the Morey-Saint-Denis side of the grand cru, where the vineyard meets Clos de Tart. This position gives the wine a more structured and mineral expression than the softer stereotype often associated with Chambolle-Musigny.

The domaine works 1.6 hectares on clay-limestone soils over limestone and marl, at an average altitude of 280 metres with a south-eastern exposure. Vinification uses 30–50% whole bunches, followed by 15 days of maceration in wooden vats. The wine matures for 18 months in oak barrels, with approximately 45% new oak.

The 2017 is dark-fruited and tightly composed, opening with black cherry, raspberry and plum before crushed stone, rose, undergrowth and dark spice emerge. The palate is medium to full-bodied, with dense fruit, grainy tannins and a stern mineral backbone. There is richness through the centre, but the finish is controlled, persistent and distinctly savoury.

This is an intellectual rather than immediately seductive Bonnes-Mares. Its power is carried by structure and length, with the perfume and finer detail becoming clearer as the wine opens.

Roast duck, beef fillet with or without sauces, mushroom risotto or pasta, truffle dishes, aged cheeses.

Serve: 16 °C
Drink: 2026–2050